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Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinet Painting in Coral Springs

The short answer

Cabinet painting suits sound wood or MDF cabinets whose layout you like but whose color or finish looks tired. Doors come off, every surface is degreased, sanded and primed, and a hard enamel is sprayed or rolled on in thin coats.

Solid cabinet boxes with dated color or worn finish do not have to be torn out. A careful painting process can turn oak, honey maple or tired white cabinets into a smooth, durable surface in a new color, for a fraction of the disruption of a remodel. CraftEdge Painters refinishes kitchen, bathroom, laundry and built-in cabinetry for homeowners in Coral Springs, Parkland, Coconut Creek, Tamarac and the surrounding area. Below is how the job works, from deciding whether your cabinets are good candidates to keeping the finish looking sharp afterward.

Is painting the right choice for your cabinets?

Painting makes sense when the boxes are structurally sound, the doors are not warped or delaminating, and you are happy with where everything sits. It is a strong option if you want to modernize a kitchen before selling, brighten a dark bathroom, or coordinate cabinets with new countertops.

It is less suitable when particleboard has swollen from a leak under the sink, when thermofoil or vinyl wrap is peeling, or when you plan to move appliances and change the layout. In those cases we will explain why paint alone will not solve the problem.

  • Good candidates: solid wood, plywood, MDF and previously painted cabinets in sound condition
  • Poor candidates: water-swollen particleboard, peeling laminate wraps, badly warped doors
  • Worth discussing: cabinets with heavy grain like oak, where some texture may show through unless grain filler is used

Protecting the kitchen while we work

Cabinet work happens in the busiest room of the house, so protection is planned carefully. Countertops, backsplash, appliances and flooring are covered with paper and plastic, and the work area is sealed off with plastic sheeting where sanding dust could drift into living spaces. Doors and drawer fronts are labeled, removed and taken to a separate setup for finishing, which keeps spray work away from your furniture and lets the frames be painted in place with minimal mess.

Hinges, pulls and knobs are bagged and labeled by location. If you are switching to new hardware with different hole spacing, tell us early so old holes can be filled and new ones drilled at the right point in the process.

Preparation, one step at a time

Kitchen cabinets carry years of cooking oil, fingerprints and cleaning residue, and paint will not grip any of it. Preparation is where most of the labor goes, and skipping steps here is the main reason cabinet paint chips early.

  • Cleaning: every door, drawer and frame is degreased with a cleaner made for kitchen surfaces, then wiped down with clean water
  • Scraping: loose paint or failing old finish around edges and handles is scraped back to a firm surface
  • Sanding: the existing finish is scuff-sanded to dull the gloss and give primer a texture to hold, followed by thorough dust removal
  • Patching: dents, gouges and unused hardware holes are filled with a sandable wood filler and sanded flush
  • Caulking: gaps where frames meet walls or where face frames join panels are sealed with paintable caulk for a seamless look
  • Priming: a bonding primer suited to the existing surface is applied, and on oak a stain-blocking primer helps stop tannin from bleeding into light colors

Choosing the paint and sheen

Cabinets need a harder, more washable coating than walls. We typically recommend a waterborne alkyd or urethane-modified enamel, which levels out smoothly, cures hard and resists yellowing better than old oil paints. In South Florida kitchens and bathrooms, high humidity and steam from showers or cooking make a moisture-tolerant, scrubbable finish especially important.

Satin is the most common choice because it hides minor imperfections and wipes clean easily. Semi-gloss gives a crisper, more reflective look and is slightly tougher, but it shows every flaw in the surface below. Matte cabinet finishes exist, though they mark more readily in a busy kitchen. We can bring sample boards so you can compare color and sheen under your own lighting.

How the coats go on

Doors and drawer fronts are usually sprayed in a controlled area for an even, brush-free surface. Face frames and cabinet sides are typically brushed and rolled with fine foam or microfiber rollers to avoid overspray in the house. Each coat is applied thin, allowed to dry fully and lightly sanded before the next one, and two finish coats over primer is the usual approach.

Humidity slows drying, so on muggy days we leave extra time between coats. Doors are reinstalled only after the enamel has hardened enough to handle, and hardware goes back on last.

What shapes the cost, and how to care for the finish

Every cabinet job is quoted after we see it, because several factors change the amount of work involved. Afterward, a little care keeps the surface looking new for a long time.

  • Surface condition: grease buildup, peeling old paint or water damage add prep time
  • Square footage: the number of doors, drawers, panels and frames being painted
  • Height and access: tall upper cabinets, crown molding and stacked units take longer to reach and protect
  • Number of colors: a two-tone kitchen with a different island or uppers adds setup and masking
  • Trim detail: raised panels, beadboard and decorative moldings take more time than flat slab doors
  • Paint quality: premium cabinet enamels cost more than general-purpose paints but hold up far better
  • Care: let the finish cure for a few weeks before heavy scrubbing, clean with mild soap and a soft cloth, wipe up spills and water near the sink promptly, and avoid abrasive pads or harsh solvents

Cabinet Painting by city

What to expect

How a visit goes

  1. Honest scope

    We tell you what the surface actually needs, including problems like rotted wood or roof leaks that a painter should not hide.

  2. Weather-aware scheduling

    Exterior coats go on when walls are dry and there is time to cure before the rain, with interior work used to fill stormy stretches.

  3. Respect for your home

    Drop cloths, masking and plant covers go down first, and the work area is tidied every day so you can keep living normally.

FAQ

Common questions

How long does cabinet painting take?

It depends on the size of the kitchen and the drying conditions. Your kitchen is usable in a limited way during the project, and we give you a clear schedule before we start.

Will the wood grain show through the paint?

On open-grain woods like oak, some texture usually shows. If you want a perfectly smooth look, a grain filler step can be added before priming.

Do you paint the inside of the cabinets?

Interiors are not included by default because they see less wear, but they can be painted on request.

Can you paint laminate or thermofoil cabinets?

Some laminate can be painted with a dedicated bonding primer. Peeling thermofoil cannot hold paint well and usually needs replacement.

Do you install new hardware?

Yes, we can mount new pulls and knobs you supply, including filling old holes when the spacing changes.

Is cabinet painting smelly?

Modern waterborne enamels have far less odor than oil paints. We ventilate the work area during application.

Plan your next paint project

Tell us about the rooms, walls or cabinets you want refreshed. We will set up a walkthrough, look at the surfaces with you and send a clear written scope.

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